Wednesday, February 01, 2006

A Tribute To Spanakopita


I usually eat in the dining hall, where they have a never-ending supply of lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage, plus oil, vinegar, bread, feta, and of course, meat. However, I sometimes reach the breaking point, where I just can't stand to see one more plate of the same stuff. So I branch out. A lot of times, branching out means pites.
Pites are not what they sound like to American ears. When I hear "pita", I think of the pocketed bread that you serve with hummus. In Greek, however, "pita" means "pie", as in a pie made of filo dough, stuffed with various things. The most popular ones are Tiropita, (cheese pie), and Spanikopita (spinach pie).
I had never heard of tiropita before I came to Greece, but I had definitely heard of spanikopita, in several contexts. First, there are a number of Greek and middle eastern places that serve it in New York. Second, the Grinnell Dining Hall used to serve it, and if you called the menu hotline, you could hear the dining hall lady announce, in her very American twang, that dinner was Spanako-PI-ta. It's really pronounced with the accent on the "KO", as spanaKOpita. This is a demonstration of the most important rule for English speakers learning Greek, which is as follows: Whenever you see a new word, read it aloud to yourself, paying close attention to the place where you, as an English speaker, naturally place the accent. Then put the accent somewhere else, because you are definitely wrong.
Anyway, spanakopita, in my opinion, is a useful food. You can eat it for breakfast, lunch or dinner, and it has vegetables (spinach), carbohydrates (dough), and sometimes protein (if you get the kind with cheese). Also, it usually has plenty of oil. In other words, it's a complete meal. Close enough, anyway. And it's readily available everywhere, from the Anatolia canteen to every other shop in the downtown area.
Of course, there are a number of places that sell Bougatsa, which is another Filo dough based pie food, also filled with spinach, cheese, creme and/or other assorted substances with varying degrees of nutritional value. A Greek friend tells me that pitas and bougatsa are very different. I personally cannot detect a major difference, but I'm going to take his word for it, since I have been known to fuss at length about the minor differences between New York pizza parlors, Indian Restaurants, or bagel stores. (Patsy's in East Harlem, the Jackson Diner in Jackson Heights and Absolut Bagels on 107th and Broadway beat everything else hands down, and that's all there is to it.)

13 comments:

Anonymous said...

if you ever run into it, hortopita -- like spanakopita made with wild greens -- is incredible ...
and then there is prassopita (leek pie)...
i think i need to go to the store and buy some filo..

peavey said...

yes, listen to eleni, hortopita is much better. Prassopita is kind of sweet. And there's evet a milk-pie (galatopita), it's similiar to bugatsa with cream. BTW, I don't know if it sounds stupid or not, but I always thought spanakopita and tiropita were just the Greek names, and the actual food was internationally popular as something to eat in the afternoon, or quickly on the road. I mean, what the hell do you eat in NY if you just want to grab a quick bite? hot dogs and sandwitches only?

Your posts tend to make me hungry.

Enorkos said...

It's funny that you mention spanakopita and bougatsa. I have a few friends from Thessaloniki and they insist in calling all pie foods "bougatsa"...so for them, spinach pie is bougatsa with spinach, tiropita is bougatsa with cheese and so on. Not only they insist but they also make fun of people (like me) who call a good ol' cheese pie "Tiropita".
I get back to them by inventing bougatsa-words like: "bougatsa with tobacco: cigarrete, bougatsa with trains: subway" etc
In the rest of greece bougatsa is just the cream filled pie (served warm with sugar and cinnamon). It's so good I am surprised Starbucks hasn't introduced it yet (probably as Boogaccino)

Anyway, if you ever miss a bougatsa, spanakopita or tyropita when you get back to NY, hop on the N or W to 30th Avenue in Astoria and visit the Titan (greek supermarket).

Anonymous said...

zardoz says :

hi this is the food blog ?
see you have covered the pita section.

so whats next?


" TERKENLIS " PASTRY SHOP RIGHT IN THE CENTER OF THESSALONIKI
SPECIALTY
.............CHOCOLATE COVERED CROISSANTS ABOUT THE SIZE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE HAM, TAKE ONE HOME ,


FINGER LICKIN GOOD'

ALSO AT EL VENIZELOS AIRPORT EXIT 5
AT THE ARRIVALS.

-----------ZARDOZ

Emily said...

Thanks, I'll have to try hortopita. I've tried prasopita and I liked it, but spanakopita is still my favorite.
OK, enorkos, I'm glad I'm not the only one that is confused about the difference between bugatsa and other pites.
Actually, peavey, there are lots of things you can grab quickly in New York besides pites. Sandwiches of all sorts, hot dogs, knishes (potato pies), pretzels, ice cream, wraps, burritos, Indian roti, and of course, pizza by the slice. I always thought pizza just came in slices, but apparently you have to buy whole pies in the rest of the US.
Thanks for the tip, zardoz. This isn't "the food blog" exactly, but food is something I am very fond of. It's sort of like the food, travel, teaching and cat blog.

peavey said...

knishes (potato pies), Indian roti
ok, you got my attention, I'd like a special commentary on the above, 'cause I've never eaten or seen any of them!

P.S. You can definetally get pizza by the slice, or mini pizzas, or pizza al metro [pizza by the meter (I know, kind of obvious)] there's got to be many (or maybe some?) shops selling these, (though I've only been to Thessalonica twice for a few days)

Anonymous said...

ZARDOZ SAYS:
emily
I know its not the food blog
Ive visited before
and commented on your blog
and
im kidding
just saw scruffys face
in connection to PITAS (FOOD)
and thought it sticked.
anyways chocolate croissants seem
to be gettin well known in the rest of greece and they first started
being made in thessaloniki.

--zardoz

Emily said...

Oh, peavey, knishes and roti are both really good. Knishes (pronounced K-Nish, with a hard 'k') are made of mashed up potatoes in a soft dough crust. They're good, especially from Nathan's in Coney Island, which also has the best french fries.

Indian Roti is something that just appeared about a year ago around the corner from my house. Apparently it is "Bombay Street food." Indian soft flat bread with a variety of fillings, including egg, spinach, potato, chicken, lamb, curry...everything spicy and so good I'm getting hungry.

Of course, New York, sadly, does not have crepes, at least not the kind you buy and walk around with. I don't know why not; we have almost everything else and they seem like they would be really popular. When I go home, maybe I will open a Greek style crepe place.

Anonymous said...

Haha... This all sounds so delicious!

It's true that Thessalloniki is THE place to get a bugatsa. I don't think they get any better anywhere else. That's probably why some people from Thessalloniki insist on callin all pies "bugatsa" :)

But bugatsa is definitely a "sweet" pie, as opposed to tiropitta which is a "salty" pie. Mainly because of the cream. It's a cross between tiropitta and crem brulee (well, not really but it's the best analogy I can come up with right now), so for a lot of people it falls out of the 'pie' category..

Talking about sweet pies.. have you tried a cherry pie? And about sweets in general, I don't know how popular they are in Greece, but have you had a chance to try a "tea spoon sweet", which is basically some type of fruit that's peeled, boiled, and cooked in syrup? (sometimes it's the fruit, sometimes it's the peel)? You can get pretty much any fruit in this form of sweet, ranging from cherry, watermelon, grapefruit, strawberry, etc. My favorite is grapefruit peel.. But cherry and watermelon is also pretty good... The taste is pretty close to that of the corresponding jam.

peavey said...

Speaking of sweets, have you had a chance to eat "Tavuk gögsü" while in Turkey Emily? It's a sweet, a cream actually, made from chicken! It's kind of weird, but it tastes great (much like crème caramel). Does anyone know if we can get some around here(in Athens as far as I'm concerned :) )?

Kassandra said...

Scruffy: Mexican??? In Athens? WHERE??? TELL ME NOW!!! PLEEEEEASE! :) I, too, get desperate for some foreign food every now and then...
Emily: I heard about your blog on Scruffy's site, read the first couple entries, then went straight back to the VERY BEGINNING (August) and have been sitting here since, as the sun went down, reading it straight through. I though I'd just tell you (why not make someone feel good?) that your writing is absolutely fantastic. I've been erupting into laughter every few minutes for the last few hours. It's better than some books I've read about Greece - actually you could try to get it published or go into travel writing or something. It's a great job if you can do it! So, thanks for the great read.

Kassandra said...

Thanks scruff! I always feel a bit silly bugging embassies with questions like that... I suppose it's what they're there for, but I'm a bit shy about stuff like that, so your help much appreciated.

admin said...

Hi!! How funny to read an entry about σπανακόπιτα in english! I have to say though that enorkos and constantinos are right about boygatsa (μπουγάτσα). Boygatsa does not contain any spinach, its like they described sweet with cream! It has been my personal favourite since my childhood (I am born and raised in Greece).